Fit7 minute read
What is a relaxed fit shirt? How it should fit
What relaxed fit means next to regular, slim and oversized, how a relaxed shirt should sit at the shoulder and the hem, how to choose a size and how to wear one, for men and women.
A relaxed fit shirt is cut with more room through the chest, waist and sleeves than a regular fit. It falls straight from the shoulders instead of following your shape. It still fits at the shoulder, with the seam at your shoulder’s edge or just past it, which keeps it relaxed rather than oversized. Below are the four fits side by side, how a relaxed shirt should sit and how to size and wear one. Our examples are Masidas shirts for men and women.
Relaxed fit vs regular, slim and oversized
Each name describes the cut, not how big a size is:
| Fit | Chest and waist | Shoulder seam | The look |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slim | Close to the body, tapered at the waist | At the edge of the shoulder | Follows your shape and sits flat under a jacket |
| Regular | Room to move, with a mostly straight body | At the edge of the shoulder | Straight and tidy, tucked in or worn out |
| Relaxed | More room again, straight and full | At the edge of the shoulder or just past it | Loose and easy, but still your size |
| Oversized | Cut larger than your size on purpose | Dropped onto the upper arm | Roomy all over, by design |
Sizes vary from maker to maker, so the fit name cannot tell you how much room a size has. In size S, our relaxed point collar shirt measures 38.6 in around the chest. The regular fit cotton henley shirt measures 41.3 in. The relaxed shirt is cut in Asian sizing, and its S is close to a US XS.
How it should sit at the shoulder
The shoulder decides whether a shirt looks relaxed or simply too big, so check it first.
- Seam: at the edge of your shoulder, or a little past it. If it sits well down your arm, the shirt is oversized or a size too large.
- Chest and back: the fabric falls straight from the chest. Reach both arms forward: it should not pull across your back or at the buttons.
- Sides: you can pinch some spare fabric at each side, but the shirt should not billow when you tuck it in.
- Sleeves: a little fuller than on a regular shirt, and long enough to reach the wrist bone when unrolled.
Before you order, lay a shirt that fits you flat and measure straight across from seam to seam. Compare that with the shoulder line in the product table. Our measuring guide shows how to measure the rest of a shirt you own.
Where the hem should end
Worn untucked, a relaxed shirt should cover your belt and end no lower than the middle of your seat. Any longer and it starts to look oversized; much shorter and it lifts when you reach up. To tuck it in, it needs enough length to stay put when you sit down.
The relaxed point collar shirt has a curved hem, and its length is 27.2 in for size S and 31.3 in for 4XL. To compare, measure a shirt you like from the highest point of the shoulder, beside the collar, down to the hem.
How to choose your size
For woven shirts, our measuring guide suggests a garment at least 2 to 4 in larger than your chest for a close fit. A relaxed fit needs more. So measure your chest, then read the chest line in the table on the product page. Here is a worked example for the relaxed point collar shirt and a 38 in chest:
- Size M measures 40.2 in, which leaves 2.2 in: a close fit.
- Size L measures 41.7 in, which leaves 3.7 in: still close.
- Size XL measures 43.3 in, which leaves 5.3 in: a relaxed fit.
Its page gives the short version: size S is close to a US XS, and for a relaxed fit it advises one size up. Check the shoulder too (17.7 in for size XL) against a shirt you own. Our size guide explains how to read the measurements and what to do if one is missing.
How to wear a relaxed fit shirt
Open over a tee
The easiest way, and the one the relaxed point collar shirt’s page suggests: leave it open over a white tee. Roll the sleeves; on this shirt they roll and button to a tab at the elbow. Choose a tee that ends at or above the shirt’s hem, so it does not show below it.
Buttoned, with trousers
Its page also suggests buttoning it up with trousers. A relaxed shirt looks deliberate with trousers that narrow below the knee, because the room in the shirt then reads as ease rather than size. The pleated tapered trousers have a single front pleat and a pressed crease, and their page pairs them with a crisp shirt.
The stretch tapered chinos are slim and tapered, with a little stretch. Both are sold in Asian waist codes that run small, so read their fit lines first. More pairs are in men’s trousers.
Tucked or half tucked
Tuck it in fully with tailored trousers for work. For a looser line that still shows your waist, tuck in only the front. This half tuck suits wide leg trousers and jeans.
As a light jacket
The twill overshirt is cut relaxed, with no stretch, in a cotton twill that the supplier states as 100% cotton. Open over a tee it works as a light jacket; buttoned, it is a shirt. Its sizes start at M, which measures 43.3 in around the chest.
Relaxed fit shirts for women
For women, the relaxed look usually comes from an oversized shirt given some shape: half tucked, belted or worn open over a fitted top. The oversized button down shirt has a pointed collar and long sleeves. It comes in sizes S to 5XL, and its page notes that it falls loose over leggings and opens up as a light layer. It measures 42.1 in at the bust in size S, so the looseness is built in. Compare the table with a shirt you own before you size up.
For summer, the oversized notched blouse is 95% cotton and 5% linen, with short sleeves and a notched neckline. It falls straight over the hips. See more in women’s tops, and pair them with women’s trousers in a wide leg.
Fabric and care
The relaxed point collar shirt is a slubbed weave that the supplier lists as a cotton and linen blend. No percentages are given, so we give none either. Its care line reads machine wash cold, hang to dry.
The twill overshirt is washed cold and inside out, then dried in the shade. Both women’s pieces above are hand wash cold, do not tumble dry. Our fabric guide explains how cotton and linen behave.
Questions about relaxed fit shirts
What does relaxed fit mean on a shirt?
It means the shirt is cut with extra room through the chest, waist and sleeves, so it hangs straight rather than following your shape. A regular fit has less room and a mostly straight body; on both, the shoulder still fits, which keeps a relaxed shirt from looking oversized.
Is relaxed fit the same as oversized?
No. An oversized shirt is cut larger than your size on purpose, usually with the shoulder seam dropped onto the upper arm. A relaxed shirt is your own size, with more room in the body.
Should I size up for a relaxed fit?
Usually not, because the room is already in the cut: start with your usual size and check the chest measurement. A shirt in Asian sizing is the exception. Our relaxed point collar shirt’s size S is close to a US XS, and its page advises going one size up for a relaxed fit.
Can you tuck in a relaxed fit shirt?
Yes, as long as it is long enough to stay in when you sit. Tuck it fully into tailored trousers for work, or tuck in just the front with wide leg trousers or jeans.
Masidas sells knitwear, coats and dresses for women and men. See every shirt in men’s shirts, or start with the relaxed point collar shirt.
